Bespoke Tailors, Est. MCMXXXIV

Hartley & Vane

Bespoke Tailors, Est. MCMXXXIV

No. 11 Savile Row, London · 720 Madison Avenue, New York

Enter

The House

A suit from this house is not designed. It is arrived at, over three fittings and ninety years of habit. We cut by hand, we baste by hand, and we are in no particular hurry about either.

  1. 1934
    The founding

    Edmund Hartley, a coat maker, and Charles Vane, a trouser cutter, take a lease on a single room above a glover's shop at No. 11 Savile Row. Their first ledger records eleven customers, nine of whom remained with the house for life.

  2. 1958
    The house coat

    The house settles its signature silhouette: a soft, unpadded shoulder, a gently suppressed waist, and a lapel with what Hartley called a quiet roll. It has not changed since, and we see no reason it should.

  3. 1987
    New York

    After thirty years of trunk visits to the Carlyle, the house opens a second atelier on Madison Avenue. The patterns crossed the Atlantic; the pace of the fitting room did not quicken to meet the city.

  4. 2012
    The archive

    Every paper pattern cut since 1934, some fourteen thousand of them, is catalogued and preserved in the cellar at Savile Row. A customer's grandson may still be measured against his grandfather's chest line.

  5. 2024
    The ninetieth year

    The house marks ninety years with no anniversary collection, no collaboration, and no announcement beyond a small card in the window. We celebrated in the usual manner: by finishing the week's coats on time.

The Process

Six stages, three fittings, and something over sixty hours of handwork. Select a stage to see what happens, and why we refuse to skip it.

Stage I of VI

Consultation

An hour in the front room with your cutter, and nothing more strenuous than conversation. We discuss where the garment will live: the boardroom or the shooting brake, July in the city or January in the country. Most decisions are made here, quietly, before a single measurement is taken.

Allow one hour. No obligation follows.

The Cloth Library

Above two thousand cloths are held in the library at any time, woven for us by English and Scottish mills of long acquaintance. Six of the house standards are shown below.

Lovat Herringbone

Ainsworth & Doyle, Huddersfield 400 g

City Pinstripe

Wetherby Mills, Bradford 340 g

Shepherd's Tooth

Glen Farrar Weavers, Selkirk 380 g

West End Flannel

Ainsworth & Doyle, Huddersfield 370 g

Cavalry Twill

Harden Vale, Galashiels 460 g

Chairman's Birdseye

Wetherby Mills, Bradford 310 g

Weights are given per running metre. Heavier cloths drape better, press sharper, and outlast their owners' enthusiasms. We will say so in the consultation.

Appointments

Both ateliers receive customers by appointment only. First commissions require three visits over roughly twelve weeks; we will arrange the second and third around your diary.

London

The Row
No. 11 Savile Row
Mayfair, London W1S 3PF
+44 20 7946 0834
Hours Monday to Friday, 9.30 to 5.30
Saturday, 10.00 to 2.00, by arrangement

New York

The Avenue
720 Madison Avenue, Fourth Floor
New York, NY 10065
+1 (212) 555-0147
Hours Monday to Friday, 10.00 to 6.00
Saturday, 10.00 to 3.00, by arrangement

Request an Appointment

Leave your name and preferred atelier. Our clerk will write to you within two working days to settle a time.